Pedalling in Paradise

The simple pleasure of cycling is a joy understood by all, from the youngest child mastering movement, and gaining independence on two wheels, to the 'renaissance rider' shedding years as they jump on a bike for the first time in decades. Thankfully, it's a pleasure that is becoming increasingly accessible as most countries in the world are currently building more cycle paths per year than ever before. New Zealand is no exception.

In the last three years, over 1,000 kilometres of cycle trails have been built, mostly as part of the New Zealand Cycle Trail (Nga Haerenga), which has a long-term vision of developing a network of cycle routes covering the length and breadth of the country. These trails, and others built before them, often follow rivers, lakefronts and coastlines - strong anchors to New Zealand's celebrated natural environment.
The following cycle rides range from easy concrete boulevards meandering past cafés and vineyards through to rugged dirt tracks buried deep in the middle of conservation wilderness. Naturally, the rides suit a range of riders and bikes, but all have one thing in common - spectacular waterfront scenery.

Each track is also open to walkers and runners, and can be shortened to suit your personal timeframe. Jonathan Kennett, trail designer and author of several cycling books, highlights a selection of his favourite New Zealand waterside rides.

The Waikato River Trails

Grade: Easy and Intermediate
Time: 1-4 days
Distance: 100km

Also known as the 'Hidden Trail', this is one of the Waikato's better-kept secrets. The second of the New Zealand Cycle Trails to be officially opened, it is a fully gravelled, all-weather track, perfect for a spin any time of year. The track can be cycled in its entirety over a few days, or you can select various short sections to complete as easy day outings.
The track starts beside Lake Karapiro, near Cambridge, and ends at Atiamuri, 40 kilometres north of Taupo. The most popular section is 11km long and runs from Lake Karapiro, south to the Rhubarb Café in Arapuni, where riders can celebrate their arrival with a well-deserved treat. This section includes a 500-metre-long boardwalk that weaves across the Huihuitaha wetland, abundant with birdlife. Further south, the section from Atiamuri to the Dam Café in Whakamaru passes ancient volcanoes and is often so close to the river that you can sense its changing moods.

The Motu Trails

Grade: Easy to Advanced
Time: 2-8 hours
Distance: 24km to 77km

Opotiki has popped onto the radar as the most attractive destination for cyclists in the Bay of Plenty, and with good reason. The region has invested heavily in developing the Motu Trails made up of three impressive trails including the Old Motu Coach Road, the Pakihi Track and the Dunes Trail, providing something for everyone.
Naturally, the most popular option is also the easiest. The smooth, wide Dunes Trail starts from War Memorial Park in Opotiki and skirts around the Bay of Plenty to the Tirohanga motor camp and back again. This return ride provides views across the Pacific Ocean on one side and up to the bush-clad peaks of the Raukumara Range on the other.
If the Dunes Trail only whets your appetite, then try mountain biking down the 27km Pakihi Track. It's an historic stock route, upgraded for the New Zealand Cycle Trail, that passes through the beautiful Urutawa Conservation Area south of Opotiki. And finally, for seriously fit cyclists, the historic Old Motu Coach Road, established on pre-European Maori trails, provides ample exercise over its hilly but scenic 77km length between Matawai and the Bay of Plenty.

Lake Track - Taupo

Grade: Intermediate
Time: 1 day
Distance: 33km-plus

As part of the Cycle Trail project, a 100 kilometre track is being built around the top half of Lake Taupo. The first 33km was opened for cycling in 2011 and starts from the beautiful Whakaipo Bay (15km from Taupo). The trail threads its way through native forest, climbing over a prominent headland before flowing down to the lakefront village of Kinloch and sheltered Whangamata Bay. It then continues over to the remote Kawakawa Bay, providing stunning views of Lake Taupo and a fun return trip. All three bays provide great swimming spots on a hot summer's afternoon.
Track building is slow going in this difficult terrain, with cliffs and streams to negotiate almost every kilometre, but the track team are patient and committed to providing an excellent end product. They hope to complete the track by mid-2013, when it will lead all the way to the Waihaha River bridge on Highway 32.

The Hawke's Bay Trails

Grade: Easy
Time: 1 hour to 1 week
Distance: up to 180km

These are not about the bike or the biking or even the trails, which are so smooth and flat you won't even think about them after a few minutes' pedalling. A cycling holiday in Hawke's Bay is about gently absorbing fabulous coastal scenery and stunning river valleys, en route to award-winning vineyards and restaurants. Hawke's Bay is the closest you can get to a European cycling holiday without jumping on a plane.
The extensive network of cycle paths link all the well-known attractions between Napier, Havelock North, Hastings and Taradale, including Mission Estate Winery, Splash Planet swimming pool and the clifftop Cape Kidnappers' wildlife tours. Lesser-known but well worth visiting attractions include the Pheasants Nest (Rural Restaurant winner 2010) in Puketapu and the restored wetlands of Ahuriri Estuary. Biking has taken off to such an extent in the region that Hawke's Bay is now claiming to be the 'Cycling Capital of New Zealand'. Many hotels hire bikes, and there are several tour companies ready to help with cycling itineraries ranging from just a few hours to a week.

Queen Charlotte Track

Grade: Advanced
Time: 2-3 days
Distance: 63km

The Queen Charlotte is a favourite among those who enjoy combining remote mountain biking during the day with the comforts of modern living at night. Also a popular walking track, it begins with a boat trip from Picton up Queen Charlotte Sound to Ship Cove or Resolution Bay (Resolution Bay being the preferred starting point for hill-haters).
From Resolution Bay south, the Department of Conservation has done an excellent job of upgrading the old track. From bay to bay, it travels through regenerating forest, sometimes skirting the coastline, at other times climbing along ridges high above the sea. The last few kilometres reward with a gentle downhill unwind through mature beech forest - pure biking heaven, but keep an eye out for walkers heading the opposite way. Accommodation is available at numerous places en route, including Punga Cove, Portage Bay, Mistletoe Bay and Anakiwa, to name a few. For a small fee, luggage can be delivered to the next night's destination, leaving riders to enjoy the track unencumbered.

St James Cycle Trail

Grade: Advanced
Time: 1-2 days
Distance: 90km

In November 2010, this tough but stunningly scenic track became the first New Zealand Cycle Trail to be completed. It provides skilled, fit riders with an opportunity to experience the raw beauty of the retired St James Station. Be warned though, this is not an easy cycle path, it requires river crossings and bike carrying in places and is suitable for experienced bikers only. It is a back-country experience for those seeking to 'get away from it all'. Hanmer Springs tourist resort (130km north of Christchurch) is the base for this ride, and it offers fine restaurants, divine hot pools and an array of accommodation options.
Once on this loop trail which starts and ends near Lake Tennyson, riders are plunged into a different world. Majestic mountains, untouched rivers and forest-lined high country lakes envelope you. There are no shops, no cell phone coverage, not even a coffee cart! The best accommodation you can hope for is the insect-proofed tent strapped to your carrier. This track is all about challenge, achievement and the unadulterated outdoors. I loved it.

Little River Rail Trail

Grade: Easy
Time: 1-4 hours
Distance: 20-45km

Built in the 1870s, and largely abandoned by the 1960s, the 45 kilometre Little River Rail Trail is being transformed, metre by metre, into the most popular cycling route in Canterbury. It already attracts over 45,000 riders a year. The history of the railway line is brought to life by fascinating interpretation panels at well-positioned points along the route and Little River township, tucked into the base of Banks Peninsula, complements the ride with a charming café and a boutique gift shop in the old railway station.
The best section is the last 20kms from Motukarara to Little River via Lakes Ellesmere and Forsyth. Bird spotters will also be in for a treat. At any one time, up to 100,000 birds, and 150 different species, can be spotted from the trail. Lake Ellesmere has the most diverse bird population in New Zealand. Don't forget sun block, binoculars and a good ornithology field book!

Westland Wilderness

Grade: Easy
Time: 3-4 days
Distance: 120km

Rugged coastline, wild forests and hypnotic views of the Southern Alps are matched with fascinating slices of pioneering life and West Coast hospitality, making this an unforgettable experience. From Greymouth, the track traces the pounding Tasman Sea south to the Taramakau River before ducking inland to the historic mining town of Kumara. From there, you enter the wilderness proper, passing lakes and entering ancient rain forest en route to Cowboy Paradise, a replica western town, complete with saloon, boardwalks, shooting range and rustic accommodation.
The third day is mostly downhill, beside the mighty Arahura River, and then the more intimate Lake Kaniere water race, en route to the wild food capital of New Zealand, Hokitika. Those hankering for more can ride the optional fourth day which continues south following old tramlines to the village of Ross, with an option to rest your legs on a paddle-boat cruise to beautiful Lake Mahinapua. This track is still under construction and will be officially opened in early 2012.

Wanaka Lakefront

Grade: Easy and Intermediate
Time: 1-2 hours
Distance: 18km or 26km

From Wanaka township, two great tracks head around the lakefront. One is easy; the other intermediate; both are extremely popular with cyclists and walkers, so if you are looking for solitude, you'll need to get up very early.
Navigation could not be simpler. Just head to the lakefront and ride left to Glendu Bay or right to Albert Town. The longer more challenging ride is to Glendu Bay. It follows a wide and well-gravelled track but includes a few short steep hills. In autumn and winter, the views across the lake to Mount Aspiring National Park and beyond are spectacular. If you prefer a ride that is virtually flat, then head right, around the lakefront to Albert Town. This route leads to the lake outlet and the headwaters of one of New Zealand's largest waterways, the mighty Clutha River.

The Queenstown Trails

Grade: Easy to Intermediate
Time: 1-3 days
Distance: 90km

The spectacular Queenstown Trails provide travellers with an invigorating approach to three popular tourist destinations: the historic mining town of Arrowtown, the famous wine country of Gibbston and the adrenalin capital of New Zealand - Queenstown. You can start riding from any of these three locations, and there is the option to branch off the main loop trail and circumnavigate the jewel in the crown, Lake Hayes, a two-hour side trip halfway between Queenstown and Arrowtown. This trail is a seamlessly wide, gravelled path, sometimes skirting the lakefront and weaving through willows, alternatively traversing rugged open tussock land, with expansive views across the Kawarau Basin to the Remarkables.
Those who prefer their cycling to involve heart-racing, downhill challenges will not be disappointed either. The Gondola provides daily access to the top of the Queenstown Bike Park, from where rough dirt tracks diving down steep hillsides guarantee to push your adrenalin button.
For more information, go to www.nzcycletrail.com. A new book Classic New Zealand Cycle Trails, by the Kennett Brothers, will be available from mid-2012.